I have sewn 1970s-era Butterick 6469 before, but it was long before Mr Rat and I started this blog, and I wasn't as pleased with that original long-ago dress that I made as I am with this one. Since it has been several years since I last sewed it, I forgot how fitted this pattern is. While the dress is comfortable to wear overall, the tight sleeves don't give me a full range of movement. I think the simplest way to solve this problem in the future is just to switch out the long, slim sleeves for a puffed or flared style.
The sewing process for this dress was simple and straightforward. The only changes I made were to widen the skirt for more fullness, leave the buttons and loops off of the center seam and the sleeves, and to add some more of the cotton crochet trim to the neckline and sleeves. These particular sleeves have never eased in quite smooth for me, so I made a slight gather at the top to make it look slightly puffed. The gingham is from a queen sized cotton-poly blend sheet that I found at Goodwill recently. The cotton crochet trim is from Hobby Lobby, and was pre-washed with the fabric before I sewed it on by hand after the dress was complete.
I think this dress will look nice in the summer with a big straw hat and straw purse. Even though it is still grey and cold out, and I had to wear it over stockings and boots and under a heavy cape and shawl, at least the color and the pattern of this dress remind me that spring is coming.
You can see that I persist in sewing hopeful spring/summer clothing despite the weather's just as persistent insistence that it is not warm enough to wear them. I had just finished my first attempt of 1970s-era Butterick 3953 before Mr Rat and I decided to go visit the Red Butte Gardens in north-eastern Salt Lake City this past Saturday. Since it has been too dark, too stormy, and too busy to take photos for most of the month, Mr Rat suggested I wear my new blouse and he could photograph it during our exploration of the garden. It was a hopeful suggestion, but most of the time I was bundled up in my homemade grey wool cape and my long brown skirt and the only time my blouse saw the very weak sunshine was when I took off my cape long enough to capture the few photos above.
We enjoyed our trip to the gardens, and seeing the first bulbs blooming in the midst of the grey and brown expanses of grass and soil and bare branches. I also enjoyed wearing my new blouse, and foresee it making many reappearances during Me-Made-May and afterwards, as the weather warms up. I like the fit, the ruffles at the bottom of the sleeves, and the scooped neckline. The hardest part of sewing it was turning the long drawstring inside out. That took me quite a while of patient poking with a bamboo skewer. And the next hardest part was sewing the bias binding casings on straight for the sleeve elastic and the drawstring waist. The rest of the blouse was quite simple: it has no darts, just a little easing at the sides of the bust, and all the shaping comes from the casings. I did the buttonholes by hand, used thrifted buttons (I have so very many of these white buttons! You will probably see them on a lot of my summer sewing ahead this year), and added white cotton crochet lace trim by hand to the neckline, the bottom hem, and the ends of the sleeves. I like the crochet trim a great deal: it is delicate and simple. I try to buy a few spools of it whenever trims come on sale at Hobby Lobby and I happen to be near a store. Then I pre-wash it, since it is prone to shrinking, and iron it before I sew it onto my chosen fabric. This particular fabric is a thrifted piece of seersucker in a nice shade of grey-blue.
Altogether, I am pleased with my first attempt at this pattern. I think I might change the slope of the shoulders just a little, so that the neckline is a little tighter, but otherwise I don't think it needs any adjustments.
Has spring sprung in your part of the world yet? (Or autumn, for the lower hemisphere). Do you ever sew out of season, just because you are looking forward to the next one a little more than the one you are in? Winter feels like it has been going on for such a long time.
Now that the snow is melting and the sun is back warming up the very-blue sky, perhaps I can finally try to catch up on some of my sewing projects here on the blog. It is still cold to photograph outside, so I used the tripod and took a few photos of my new blouse in my studio (you can see some pieces in progress and some of my various sketches and paintings behind me). This short and simple top exists almost entirely thanks to thrift store finds and a little bit of work: I found both the pattern, 1970s-era Simplicity 5639, and the fabric, a black cotton with a subtle stripe woven into it, on separate thrift store trips. I think I've had the fabric since we lived in California, but I found the pattern here in Utah. It is always a nice thing to find a pattern I like in my size at the thrift store, and even nicer when that pattern is not missing any pieces.
I like that this pattern is a very quick and easy project. It didn't take me long to finish it. In fact, most of the sewing was done in one day. There are no closures to worry about, which speeds up the process even more. I did my usual finishing touches: edge-stitching the yoke all the way around, and finishing the hems with a narrow machine-stitched seam. Although it may be hard to see in these photos, I cut the yoke on the crosswise grain so that the stripes run perpendicular to the rest of the blouse. I'm pleased with the fit, which is breezy and comfortable. The simplicity of the cut lends itself well to highlighting handmade jewelry, like this honey jade necklace I made last year, or a beautiful shawl. The only concern I had during the construction would be that the blouse would be too short and I would worry about raising my arms whenever I wear it. But it turned out not to be a problem; with a narrow hem, it hits me at the high hip, and I can stretch any direction without trouble.
I imagine I will wear this blouse a lot as the weather warms up. It is wearable now with one of my long handmade Simplicity 7880 skirts over a slip and stockings and socks, and layered with a shawl, but it will be even easier to wear when it is hot enough to not need so many layers. In fact, this pattern strikes me as being so perfect for summer that I already cut out another copy in unbleached cotton muslin. I suppose it is optimistic to be thinking ahead to warm weather clothes, but I feel a need for hopefulness right now. Maybe the snow will finish melting this week---maybe it will be warmer next week---maybe by next month I can start planting flowers and re-potting my faithful houseplants, and even draw outside again.
What are you looking forward to doing when spring arrives? Or autumn, if you are in the southern hemisphere----summer can be just as hard to endure as winter, which makes the transitional seasons of spring and fall so beloved, so beautiful, and yet so brief.
While we are waiting for better weather to photograph our new sewing projects, I thought you might enjoy seeing some of the patterns I've thrifted in the past few months. Utah is much richer hunting ground for patterns than California, I think. I've also found some lovely pieces of fabric, but you'll have to wait until I sew them up to see them. . .
Mr and Mrs Rat
Mr and Mrs Rat like to sew