This is the brown flannel dress that I had on my winter make-nine plans, which was hanging unfinished in my last update post. Now that I've completed it and am close to completing my cape, I think I'm almost half-way through my winter project list. Of course, I haven't stuck completely to it---I've also been cutting out other projects, and I made the jumper dress that I mentioned I was thinking about adding to my list at the time that I made that post (hopefully it will appear in a review here on the blog soon)---but bit by bit, I am working my way through my pile of projects.
I've made McCalls 6209 many times, and this is my third flannel version. I wear my navy blue dress and my black dress at least once a week through the long six months that make up the cold season here. Since I wear them so much, it felt like a good idea to make another version. This time I left the sleeves in a bell shape, my only change from my other versions. To make this simple change, I cut out the bishop sleeves included in the pattern, but left off the cuff and sewed a narrow hem instead. I was careful to interface the back zipper so it wouldn't ripple, and did a narrow machine hem on the skirt as well. I don't know if I've mentioned before that I don't usually use the skirt pieces included in this pattern. I like my skirts to be more full, so I usually cut a rectangular dirndl skirt using my favorite skirt pattern, Simplicity 7880, as a reference.
There is some sunshine now, and more rain than snow, and even some buds hesitantly turning green. It was just over 50 degrees when we took these photos yesterday while walking Gia at the park, and it was amazing how warm that felt. There were a lot of people walking their dogs in shirt-sleeves. I'm not so acclimatized as that, though, so I wore my new flannel dress with a petticoat, tights, and a shawl that I crocheted myself last year using this free pattern from Laughing Purple Goldfish designs. I also wore vintage brown leather gloves that I thrifted a while ago, and my purse for the day was a $2 basket that I also found at the thrift store. I made a liner for it using scraps of muslin and a white ribbon. It's just the right size for a purse, the woven wood is clean and sturdy, and the liner-bag keeps my things private. My necklace is home-made from unakite beads, which were a Christmas present from my husband. They were just right for St. Patrick's day. We made soda bread, which is my favorite part of that holiday.
I am looking forward to spring so much! I've started choosing patterns for the floral sheets from my last post, and I even finished sewing up my Easter dress last week. I can't wait until the world becomes colorful again. As quiet and restful as the brown and grey winter landscape is, I miss the variety that comes with the blossoming season.
Are you looking forward to the change of seasons where you live? Are you making sewing plans or already sewing projects for the next season? Do you like to sew something special for holidays? How do you adjust your sewing plans for the weather?
I was sad to not get this dress finished and photographed during the fall, as I had intended when I got the fabric for my birthday and started sewing it in November. But even though I didn't finish the last of the buttonholes until December, it isn’t so inappropriate for the brown and grey shades of a milder winter’s day---so long as I wear my thrifted vintage sheepskin boots and my homemade crocheted shawl with it.
This fabric is homespun cotton in a tiny gingham check/plaid from JoAnn fabrics, making it the rare fabric that we bought on sale at the fabric store rather than buying it second-hand. The buttons are from JoAnns, too, and the zipper that closes the dress in the side seam. This was my first time trying out 1970s-era Butterick 6914. I am very pleased with the comfortable fit, and I also like that there is no zipper going up the middle of the back like most patterns. Side-zippers can make getting dresses on and off a little slower, but they have the advantage of being far more invisible. I like the sleeves with their long, deep cuffs (so long that they are curved and faced, rather than folded like a shorter, straight cuff would be) and I think the little pocket on one side of the skirt is an interesting detail. It gives it an apron-like feel, just right for working and cooking and painting and sewing----you can stow any number of little things in a useful patch pocket like that.
The homespun drapes nicely, but has a tendency to warp and fray. I interfaced the top of the patch-pocket to help keep it from stretching out, used bias binding to finish the inside of the waist seam (as well as acting as a waist stay), and was careful to finish all the seams on the machine rather than pinking them as I normally would for cotton fabrics. I edge-stitched all my seams, as usual, to help keep them crisp and make them more durable. I've noticed with my vintage empire-waist dress patterns that the bust darts tend to be very deep and will end up very pointy if I don't stitch right along the edge of the fabric for a good half-inch or so at the end of the bust dart to help flatten it out. I also suspected that the sleeves wouldn't ease in smoothly at the tops (in previous patterns I've tried from the 1970s I've found that the sleeves tend to have excess ease) so I did a little extra gathering at the very top of the sleeve-head to make the extra fabric look purposeful, and I think that I was successful. The buttonholes are done by hand, and took me a long time, since they are rather large and there are quite a few between the bodice and those lovely long cuffs. The other thing that delayed my finishing this dress was getting Mr Rat's help pinning up the hem. Since the sides are cut on a curve, they stretched out and I couldn't just turn and hem the bottom the way I would with a dirndl-style skirt.
I think that prewashing homespun fabric before you cut into it is very important, since it is a little stiffer with sizing when it comes straight off the bolt, and gets very soft after even one wash. All that said, I like how my first homespun dress turned out, and will definitely use this fabric again if the opportunity arises.
In these photos that Mr Rat took at the park, I’m also wearing one of my homemade capes for extra warmth and a brown jade necklace and earrings that Mr Rat made me as a gift several years ago.
Now that Folkwear has officially released their newest pattern, the 1940s Lindy Shirtdress, I can finally share my version of it with you all! While I was still on Instagram, I noticed that Molly Hamilton of Folkwear patterns had put out a call for sewers who were interested in pattern testing. I've never pattern-tested before and thought it would be an interesting opportunity, so I replied. I didn't get selected for the first round of pattern testing, but I did get an email inviting me to join the second, for this shirtdress. My reward for being a tester was a free copy of the test-pattern and 50 percent off a pattern of my choice from their catalog. I haven't sewn with Folkwear patterns before, mostly because they are rather expensive for me, so this was a lovely chance to get something I otherwise wouldn't. I ended up choosing the Gibson Girl blouse, partly because of some of the beautiful versions I've seen of it on the internet, like this one by Sallie Oh.
The photos above are the quick shots I took in my studio when I finished sewing the dress over a month ago. A week or so later, Mr Rat took the photos below while we were walking in the park. I've gifted this dress to my sister, who wears a lot of shirt-dresses to work (she is a professor). In the park photos, I'm wearing the dress with an experimental crochet purse that I made myself and a vintage brooch shaped like sewing scissors.
In terms of construction, this is one of the more complicated dresses that I have sewn thus far, with a shawl collar, pleats on the front bodice at the shoulder and waist, gathers in the back, cuffs on the 3/4 sleeves, a waist band, and a pleated and darted skirt made out of 5 panels (if i am remembering correctly). I used a piece of Indian block-printed cotton that I found at the thrift store in Santa Clara and had waiting in my stash for the right special project. This soft cotton was a good choice, because it was thin and easy to press and sew into the darts, pleats and gathers that give this dress its interest. It also had a nice, soft drape that made the flare of the skirt very lovely. The instructions of the pattern are clear and thorough, and I think that overall the dress has a good fit. I chose to sew a size small, although I'm right inbetween the measurements for a small and an extra-small. I think the next time I will sew this pattern I will adjust it for my own tastes: narrowing the shoulders, which are rather wide for my narrow shoulders (period appropriate to the 1940s, of course, but not my favorite look on myself), and possibly substituting a full gathered skirt for the pleated skirt. Changing the skirt should be easy, since the dress has a side zipper and the skirt is attached to a waistband that sits at the natural waist. All I have to do is make sure that I have a side seam that leaves an opening for the zipper.
If you've never tried Folkwear Patterns, I can now say that I recommend them. I think their patterns are unique and interesting and well drafted, and I look forward to trying more in the future.
Monday 14 - Day 14
I wore my black banded dress with a vintage agate necklace that I restrung after it fell apart one day on the way to the library. Finding all the beads was impossible, so I made a new, shorter necklace out of what was left.
Tuesday May 15 - Day 15
I wore my peter pan collared blouse with a ribbon tie and one of my Simplicity 7880 skirts.
Wednesday May 16 - Day 16
I wore my recently completed rose blouse and one of my Simplicity 7880 skirts that I made during the winter.
Thursday May 17 - Day 17
We had a wedding reception to attend in the evening, so I accessorized my rose print dress with my rarely seen (and only) pair of high heels, a vintage hat that Mr Rat gave me as a Christmas gift, and a wooden beaded bag that I found for a dollar at the thrift store recently.
Friday May 18 - Day 18
Friday was a busy cleaning and laundry day and although I was wearing a homemade smock dress, I didn't get a photo of it.
Saturday May 19 - Day 19
I wore my navy cotton twill jacket and my navy broadcloth Simplicity 7880 skirt, along with an old ready-to-wear white collared shirt (one of the few things left in my wardrobe that isn't handmade) and a sterling silver brooch in the shape of the letter E.
Sunday May 20 - Day 20
I wore my pale blue gingham dress and a recently completed crocheted shawl. This is the first time I've read a crochet pattern on my own and been successful with the outcome, so I'm really pleased with this simple shawl (although I didn't read the pattern perfectly and the shawl is a little shorter than it was meant to be as a result----but I'm fixing that on the new version I'm slowly working on when Mr Rat and I watch an occasional movie in the evening).
Mr and Mrs Rat
Mr and Mrs Rat like to sew.