Goodbye to gingham---not forever, but probably for the rest of the year. Since we moved to Utah at the beginning of the month we have also moved to a cooler, more colorful autumn, so I have already had to pack this gingham dress away that I made before I had to pack up my sewing supplies, and which I wore on our last outing to the monastery. Simplicity 7213 is one of my favorite dress patterns, which I have made up several times, but only shared once here on the blog (my black version, which you can see here). I wore the other pre-blog versions so much that I wore them out, so I thought I should make a new version or two for my wardrobe. I had hoped that this navy and white gingham version could be a dress I could wear from spring till fall, but the fabric ended up being very light and sheer, better suited to hot weather and summertime. Still, I can’t complain, since the fabric was free: gifted by one of my mom’s friends to her, and then from my mom to me. It had a narrow width, which makes me think it was vintage yardage. It also has a lot of crisp body and is finely woven, but is also rather sheer, as I mentioned before.
The construction was straightforward: the only changes I made to the pattern was to interface the neckline facing this time, since I found with my earlier versions that with a lot of wear, the neckline can tend to stretch out otherwise. I also sewed some vintage buttons from my stash down the center front, but left off the button-loops included in the pattern. I decided to use the long sleeves and tie closures, but use the shorter skirt. I cut the shoulder yokes and tie cuffs on the bias for a little variety, and interfaced the shoulder yokes to make sure they wouldn't stretch out. I didn't feel like I needed to worry for the cuffs, so I left them un-interfaced. I did lots of edge-stitching for neatness, as usual, using white thread this time to help blend into the fabric.
Now that I’ve caught up on the last photos from before our move, I can start posting new projects in our new home and neighborhood. We are enjoying the most beautiful tapestry of leaves right now, and I feel lucky to have a 'twenty-four carat gold' tree (as my mom would call it) right in our new backyard. So please come back for more photos soon.
I hope you are all having a good autumn in whatever part of the world you inhabit.
There is something about the contrast of a white collar and cuffs on a dark dress that is always attractive to me. I am not disappointed with 1970s-era raised-waist collared dress pattern Simplicity 5497: it makes an attractive and comfortable autumnal dress, and even if the collar is larger in real life than the pattern envelope makes it seem, it is still proportional and nice looking with the long cuffs and the slightly puffed sleeves. I sewed my version out of striped black cotton that I bought at Michael Levine’s ‘Loft’ in the Los Angeles fabric district back in July. The Loft sells large pieces of remnant fabric by the pound, so most of the yardage I buy there ends up coming out to $1 a yard or less. I think this cotton was meant to be for men’s dress shirts, but there were two relatively large pieces of it, so I decided it would make a nice dress for early fall when the weather is still warm, and for later autumn and winter days worn with cardigans and heavier layers. For that reason, I left off the bow in the back of the bodice to make wearing sweaters easier and lengthened (and widened) the skirt pieces quite a bit, until they are at ankle length. I find that I like ankle length dresses and skirts a lot right now: they are easy to walk in without feeling tangled, and I never have to worry about them climbing up my legs in a stiff breeze. I think ankle length skirts also look nice with boots, like my favorite old Nine-West ones I’m wearing here.
Construction notes: I cut the skirt pieces on the selvedge wherever possible and pinked the other seams. I used a heavier interfacing for the collar and cuffs. It didn’t fuse very well, so they can look a little creased sometimes close up, but I think they turned out well enough all the same. My goal is to have wearable clothes rather than perfect ones. While I’m always striving to be a better sewer, I think it is better to accept minor flaws and consider them as part of the overall personality of a garment than to be continually dismayed over them. I edge-stitched the collar and cuffs, used bias binding to finish the waistline seam, and sewed the buttonholes on the cuffs by hand. I like the detail of the curved edge of the cuff---I think it echoes the collar shape and makes the dress more special. The buttons are from my thrift-store bought button stash.
Mr Rat took me shopping at our favorite thrift store the day before we took these photos, so I was happy to wear the new gold flower brooch I found on that trip with my new dress, and its matching clip on earrings (although they didn’t end up peering out of my hair in any of these photos). My hat is from the San Diego hat company, bought at the beginning of the summer via Amazon.
The monastery garden is starting to look more autumnal, even though the weather continues more hot than cool, and there are still flowers here and there, wilted but triumphant. Still, the leaves are starting to change, the earth is dry and brown under the olive trees and the redwoods, and the squirrels and spiders are all busy getting fat for the winter only a few months ahead. There are webs everywhere, which give the garden a haunted, mysterious aspect. Mr Rat got several lovely photos of a large and handsome spinner with her yellow stripes. She had built a web large enough to catch me had I been able to fly up above the bushes between two redwood trees. The industry of such an enterprise is astonishing to me----I can’t imagine what it would be like to crochet a blanket the size of a house (what I imagine a human-made-web might be like), or to construct a piece of architecture so enormous and so delicate. And yet spiders do it as a matter of fact, all the time. And when the wind or the rain blows down their creations, they find a new spot and start all over again.
Mr Rat says that this is his favorite dress (albeit a two-piece dress in this instance) I’ve made yet. We bought the fabric together at the Los Angeles fabric district last month for $4 a yard, which makes this one of the most expensive dresses I’ve ever made and shared on this blog. I’d estimate that it cost about $23 total, including the thrift-store bought buttons, thread, and the skirt zipper from JoAnns that I had already in my stash. I’ve had McCalls 6339 circa 1978 for a while and always felt a little intimidated by it until I thought to myself recently that truly it is just a skirt and a blouse---and even though the blouse has princess seams and self-bias binding on the bottom---that isn’t so hard. I’ve made button-up blouses before. And really, it wasn’t so hard, although it was somewhat time-consuming since I wanted the finish to be nice. I flat-felled and top-stitched the seams, bias-bound the inside of the arm-holes, stitched on the self-bias binding by hand, made the button-holes by hand also, and had to do quite a number of darts on the skirt before I gathered it. I’ve never seen a full skirt constructed in that way before, but it really controls the fullness around the waistband and gives it a nice, flattering shape. I didn’t make many construction changes to the dress: I left out the pockets since I usually carry a bag, I didn’t add the tucks at the bottom of the skirt, and I had the shorten the back of the blouse so that it didn’t wrinkle around the top of my hips. I think the next time I make it, I might try shortening the whole bodice a little bit, although this method worked fine; I just had to lengthen the bias binding a little to accommodate the new edge.
For its first debut, I wore my new gingham dress when we walked to the monastery on Sunday morning before church and watched the squirrels do astonishing acrobatic feats in the trees. There were lots of birds, bees, one fat and strangely hairless bumble-bee, and the aforementioned wildly active squirrels. Most of the garden looks very dry----summer in California is a brown time for the most part---but there were still a fair amount of pink blossoms to enjoy: oleander, roses, some curious-looking lilies, and the fuchsia bougainvillea. I hope your August is going well, and you have some flowers to enjoy, too.
Mr Rat gave me some beautiful stone beads for our recent wedding anniversary. I chose the colors: yellow, green and grey. I made necklaces and earrings and bracelets out of them, and have been wearing them often since.
This necklace is made of citrine nuggets. I love the vivid deep yellow—it reminds me of Van Gogh’s paintings.
This necklace and earring set (I also made a bracelet) is made of green jasper and onyx. The jasper reminds me of reptile skin.
This necklace and earrings are made of grey zebra jasper spaced with silver plated beads. I love to see the differences between stones. They are all similar, but each different, wonderfully unique.
I’ve always liked to wear shirt-dresses, but haven’t tried sewing one until now. I’ve had this late 1950s or early 1960s era Butterick 9947 in my pattern collection for a long time. It was probably one of the first vintage patterns I bought via the internet when I was first getting serious about sewing about five years ago. And now, I have finally used it, and I’m glad I finally got around to it. I sewed a size 12 this time, since it is an older pattern with the older pre-70s sizing. I think it fits well, with a slightly blousy top and a fitted waist. It uses a mixture of side zipper and front buttons to close, which makes it awkward to get on over my head, although comfortable once it’s on. When I opened up the pattern, I was disappointed to find that the previous owner had cut the sleeves to a short length and threw the other part of the sleeve pattern away. I made it with short sleeves this time, and I like it for summer, but next time I will draft new sleeves using the old short ones as a base, so I can sew the below-elbow length cuffed version like the front of the pattern envelope.
I sewed my dress out of a king-size cotton-polyester sheet I bought at the thrift store a few months ago. It may have been a little off grain, since I think the gathered skirt I substituted for the pleated version has a slightly odd drape, but I can live with it, especially since I intended this version as a casual, every-day work dress. I lengthened the skirt from its original below-knee length to ankle length. Since I live in a windy area, longer hems are more comfortable for me. The insides of the dress are finished very simply, mostly by pinking the seams.
The squarish buttons are vintage, from a bag I bought at the thrift store, and I think they suit the dress well. This style of dress always has to be worn with a belt, but that doesn’t bother me, since I have several thrifted black leather belts to choose from.
Mr Rat and I walked to the Santa Clara mission last weekend to enjoy the flowers and take a few photos of this dress, which has been lingering in my closet un-photographed for at least two months now. There was a wedding in the mission, so we weren’t able to take any photos of it (except for the steeple, below) this time, but we enjoyed the gardens, which were blooming despite the heat, and walked around the rest of the university campus that surrounds the mission. There were lots of squirrels and birds out enjoying the greenery, too.
Dresses with interesting shapes always intrigue me, and dresses with interesting shapes and unusual methods of closure doubly so. This 1970s era pattern had both. It was difficult to find a copy of McCall 5906---I’ve only seen it twice in my size, so I was happy to find a copy for not too much on Ebay that was even uncut. McCall 5906 is a pullover dress with a triangular yoked front and back, ties that wrap around to the back and give the dress somewhat of an empire waistline, a keyhole neckline opening, a mandarin-style closure, bottom ruffle, puffed sleeves, and all closures on the dress (neck, sleeves) are made with extra-wide bias strips that tie into bows.
I made this first attempt out of a large cotton-polyester sheet I got from the thrift store a few months ago. I find that even though the grain can get a little off with sheets sometimes, they are good sources of inexpensive thick cotton, and work especially well when trying out a pattern for the first time. Since I made my dress from durable, versatile cotton, I finished my seams very simply with pinking shears.
The tricky shape of the yoke meant that I did a lot of hand-basting before I machine sewed the dress together, and I sewed the bias tape together by hand so that it wouldn’t warp the way it sometimes does under the pressure of the sewing machine foot.
I like how the dress turned out. It is comfortable to wear and unusual in style. It reminds me of the shape of traditional Russian clothing, and the bows are an interesting and charming detail.
While I have already reviewed this dress, way back here near the beginning of our blog, I never felt like we got very many photos of it, so I thought I’d add some more here from when I wore it last Sunday on our customary walk through the monastery gardens.
After photographing one or sometimes two garments each weekend for a while now, I think Mr Rat and I are almost all caught up on older projects. There are only two more in our queue, and then we will be posting our current makes, and the rate of posts on this blog may slow down a little (after Me-Made-May, I suppose---there will probably be a lot of posts about that over the month). This particular dress is probably the oldest homemade garment in my closet. I made it around four years ago for the opening of my second solo gallery show in Los Angeles. I had made a previous version of this pattern in white with yellow flowers (which I no longer have), so I knew I needed to move the bust darts towards the middle, because they were spaced strangely far apart. Although I did make the adjustment, I think it could be adjusted a little bit further the next time I use this pattern. I made this version in black broadcloth, which has only gotten softer and more gently draping with wear and washing.
And I will likely sew it again at some point, because it is an extremely comfortable dress, with just the right amount of ease for movement, and a high waist that slopes down into a U-shape in the back of the dress---an unusual detail, but one that is strangely flattering, I think, since it makes me look tall and slim. The construction is not difficult, and the only thing that makes Patterns Pacifica different than any other vintage pattern from the 1960s-1970s (other than the fact that they were designed and printed in Hawaii) is how the pattern is printed on a heavier paper that feels a lot like construction paper, rather than typical pattern tissue. I cut a size 8, as I do for the big 4 pattern brands, and it fits just as well as they do from that same era.
Mr Rat and I ordered straw hats for summer, since we walk so much, and we were both surprised when they showed up on the same day. We couldn’t resist wearing them out on our Sunday walk to the monastery to see the flowers with Gia. We were glad of the shade, and I was glad of my very light, sheer thrift-store bought Indian shawl to cover my arms from the sun. Last week we went to some garage sales, and I bought a vitnage silver heart necklace that was black with tarnish, that I polished and wore for these pictures. The monastery gardens are lovely every time we go. On this visit the miniature roses were a riot of color, although the clover that was so lush two weeks ago is now wilted by the rising temperatures. How strange and changeable the weather is here! I wonder what surprises we will face during May as we work on our Me-Made-May challenge.
This dress dates from about two years ago---my mom gave me a big bundle of old lace she had in her sewing cupboard, and when I got this pattern, I thought it would be a good match to make a lace-trimmed summer dress. McCall’s 4281 is one of those ingenious 1970s-era pullover dress designs that uses ties that extend from a midriff band to give it its shape. I cut a size 8, and it is loose and comfortable without being large. It also has interesting puffed, flared sleeves, which I like. It is nice to sometimes sew a dress without darts, zippers, or buttons. It makes the sewing process very relaxed. I sewed the lace on by hand, and I think it gives the dress its personality and character. It is a dress I often get compliments on when I am out and about.
I think I’ll likely sew this pattern again—maybe in the longer length with the long sleeves for winter. I can imagine it would be very warm and comfortable in flannel. But since it is just starting to feel quite warm and summery here, that project may be a ways off.
We had an unusually sunny Sunday after a few days of heavy rain, so the three of us went over to the monastery to enjoy the greenness of the garden and the heady spring flowers that scent the air. I wore a new jumper dress that I finished last month using 1970s era Butterick 6000 as my starting point. Originally I intended to add long sleeves, but when I set them in I didn’t like the way they looked, so I cut out the sleeves, enlarged the armholes slightly and finished the inside with off-white bias tape. The bodice is lined, since the ivory cotton I found at the thrift store is slightly sheer on its own, and I finished the waist seam with bias tape on the inside, which acts as a waist stay and covers the gathers so it has a clean finish on the inside. As far as other adjustments go, I also cut the skirt wider than the original skirt in the pattern, and I took a little wedge out of the middle of the bodice front when I cut out the pattern, with the wider point of the wedge at the neckline tapering to nothing at the empire waist, since I’ve found in the past that low scooped necklines can sometimes be a little loose on me. I dislike rippling zippers, so I was careful to interface the edge of the fabric along the full length of the zipper, and then I hand-picked the zipper into place. I’ve found that doing my zippers that way solves the rippling zipper problem, and they always turn out straight and crisp.
You’ve probably already noticed if you’ve been following our sewing journal that I have a penchant for raised waist dresses. They are so very comfortable and easy to wear. I’ve sewn Butterick 6000 before because I like the empire waist and the simple lines of the design, but sadly the blue cotton dress I made from it last year got a big stain on the skirt that wouldn’t wash out and so I had to retire it before I ever got to photograph it for this blog.
I wore my new jumper with one of my thrifted pashmina shawls, a necklace I made myself out of blood agates and gold-plated spacer beads, and jade and cats-eye rings that I inherited from my grandmother.
Happy Easter to all Christian readers, and happy spring (or autumn if you live in the southern hemisphere) to everyone else!
Mr and Mrs Rat
Mr and Mrs Rat like to sew