Practical Denim (Simplicity 8458)

Simplicity 8458 is one of the handful of 1950s-era vintage reproduction patterns that Simplicity released this year to honor their 90th anniversary.  I bought a copy during one of JoAnn's 99 cent pattern sales recently and decided it was worth a try.  I've never had much luck with a-line skirts before because my hip and waist measurements are varied enough to be one, if not two pattern sizes apart, and so when I've tried sewing a size 8 (which is the best fit for my waist) sometimes the skirt won't fit over my hips, but when I've tried larger sized patterns, the waistline is huge, and when I've tried to grade the patterns to different sizes at the waist and hips, the skirt hasn't fallen into the proper folds.  So this time I pulled out some denim I bought at the thrift store a few years ago that had some damage on it: a few small holes and a little bit of staining that wouldn't come out in the wash.  I decided to try a size 10, and cut around the damage on the denim, and was surprised at how well it fits!  The waistband is slightly looser than most of my skirts, but isn't extremely large (and is also easy to slip sweaters into).  I think it also helps that the skirt is very flared, which makes it easier to pull on over hips of any size.  The total flare of the skirt is probably close to a half-circle skirt, maybe a bit more.  The skirt is designed with four gores, cut on the bias----it is important to follow the pattern layout for this skirt, because it has you cut out each piece in a single layer, and getting them at the right angles is very important for the skirt to hang well.

Even though I'm not wearing it with a petticoat in these pictures, it does accommodate a petticoat well, and flares nicely when I do wear one.  I like that now I have an alternative skirt pattern to my normal gathered dirndl skirts, and that it doesn't add any bulk around the hips when I'm wearing it with a peplum blouse or jacket, like here, where I paired my new skirt with my denim peplum top I finished last month.

I top stitched all the seams and used a thick gold metal denim skirt zipper, for durability.  Sewing this skirt is a simple process, but it is important to follow the instructions, even though there are few of them.  The skirt has to be basted and hung out overnight so the bias can stretch out before you sew the panels together.  It is also helpful to remember to sew from the bottom to the top on all the seams (the pattern reminds you to do so) so the stitches stretch in the proper direction.  The instructions for attaching the waistband were different than my other skirt patterns----it has you finish the waistband with edge-stitching from the outside, rather than folding and finishing it on the inside, and the pattern doesn't recommend trimming the seam before sewing the waistband closed, which I found made the waistband stiff without having to add waistband interfacing.  Since the bottom hem is heavily curved, I finished it using navy bias tape I thrifted a long time ago and had in my stash.  I used a method like the one Bianca from the Closet Historian describes here.

I'm wearing my denim outfit with a thrifted shawl, a big tiger-eye brooch (also thrifted), thrifted leather gloves, and boots that I originally thrifted several years ago and had re-heeled earlier this year.  Given my denim, buttons and bias tape were all thrifted too, I feel like I can truly claim that you can find most things you need second-hand shopping.  Sewing doesn't have to be expensive.  Neither does getting dressed in an interesting way.

I'm very pleased with how this skirt turned out and I've been wearing it a lot since I finished it.  I think it is a practical, year round skirt, and could as easily be worn hiking or cleaning as taking a walk in the park.

Mr Rat was kind enough to take these photos while we were out walking with Gia in our local park.  The weather is very grey most days, so it is very challenging to get good photos.  The landscape has turned very stark: all shades of brown and grey.  But there are beautiful bright berries on the bushes, and the evergreens are still dark green.