I've been debating with myself whether I should post this or not, since it feels a bit like bragging to share the big pile of patterns I thrifted last weekend, but then I thought that since you are all sewers (and probably have an interest in vintage fashion if you are visiting this blog) that you might be interested in seeing them because some of these patterns I found are rare and unusual; certainly there are a few that I bought that I've never seen on the internet before. Since it will probably be a while before I can sew many or all of them (I found 20, almost all in my size, and very few are missing any pattern pieces----what rare luck!), here are some photos of my 50-cent purchases that delighted me so.
If any of you want closer photos to see the details of any of the patterns (or have suggestions for which I should sew next) leave me a comment!
We now live close to a beautiful city cemetery and often go walking there with Gia. Since we've moved, we've been struggling with finding sewing time (Mr Rat) and photographing new projects (me) because it gets dark so early and our schedule is still uncertain and unsettled. I asked Mr Rat if he would take some photos of my jacket that I finished earlier in the summer and haven't reviewed yet while we took our regular walk through the cemetery in the evening. The lighting was lovely but a little difficult, so I apologize if the photos are of uneven quality. I don't think the dead found it disrespectful for us to stop and take some photos in their vicinity, but I hope the living didn't mind us pausing to take a few photos of my jacket before the sun went down and a few photos of some of our favorite old gravestones, so beautiful and so lonely.
It is surprising and charming to me that it is very popular here to decorate the graves for Halloween so that the grass is dotted with jack-o-lanterns, colored LED lights, little ghost figurines, and lots of orange bouquets. I don't think we got any pictures of the decorations for this post, since we were mostly photographing in the older, less decorated and more neglected part of the cemetery, but Mr Rat did get a photo of an unusual grave below----one that will never lack a true and loyal friend.
Sewing the jacket: After making some observations about my homemade wardrobe at the end of Me-Made-May, I felt like I needed to make more outerwear, so I decided to try 1970s-era McCalls 4177 with the leftover bits of olive-green cotton twill that Mr Rat made a jacket out of a while ago. Since the jacket is unlined, I finished the seams with bits of brown bias tape that I had thrifted, and did lots of edge-stitching to make the prone-to-wrinkles fabric look as crisp as possible. The pattern itself is not difficult. The trickiest part is the notched collar, which takes more patience than effort. I like the length of the jacket and how well it works over dresses and skirts. I also like the way the darts on the upper back shoulders, beneath the collar, and at the elbows give it a nice fit. The rounded, cropped shape is unusual and interesting, and I like the little gathered puffs at the top of the sleeves. I think I will likely sew this jacket again at some point, since it is a good length to wear with skirts, like the homemade Simplicity 7880 one I am wearing it with here.
Happy Halloween! Mr Rat and Gia and I will be curled up in front of our fireplace full of candles tonight with some candy and good books. I hope you will get to celebrate All Hallow's Eve in your favorite way tonight!
This is a typical outfit for me during these moderately cool autumn days with the leaves very thick on the ground and very thin on the trees. I am wearing my homemade navy blue broadcloth skirt with a recently thrifted ruffled navy and green plaid blouse and a recently thrifted navy crocheted shawl. Blue for autumn feels fitting during a time when the weather alone can make you melancholy. Reading the recent news about sexual assault and harassment against women in the workplace makes me feel even more melancholy. It brings up some varied bad memories for me, from experiences I cannot even talk about to my recent encounter with a young man in a big truck who said some lewd things to me while I waited at the corner to cross the street. Sometimes I wonder if dressing up and caring about my clothing means that I am making myself more susceptible to these kinds of encounters because I am drawing more attention to myself as the lone woman in a long dress in a community of women in jeans and flannel, but then I think back to my more plainly dressed college days (when I had short hair and didn't wear makeup, and wore a lot of jeans and flannel) and how I would still get flashed signs that said "show us your boobs" by trucks full of men in their early twenties as they drove by slowly in Los Angeles bumper-to-bumper traffic, and I think no-----it does not matter how you look, if you are female it is very likely that some man (or men) will sometime, somewhere be inappropriate. And it will probably happen again and again. Certainly that has been my own experience, and most women I talk to have similar stories that range from the smallest of rude gestures and comments to the most serious of violations.
I won't let fear or rudeness or the actions of certain men keep me from dressing the way I want to dress and having long hair. I have had one experience that went beyond being made uncomfortable into the realm of sexual assault. And I have to admit that afterwards I couldn't stand the dress I was wearing went it happened, even though it was one I had made myself and was fond of before that. I threw that dress away. But I didn't change any aspect of my appearance because I felt like at the time of that encounter the man who harassed me took my choices away from me, and I couldn't bear to let him take any more choices from me after it was over. I choose to keep wearing dresses. I chose to look feminine. That is my choice, and I won't let other people take it away from me no matter what they say or do to make me feel bad. Wearing dresses makes me feel good about myself. Wearing skirts reminds me of the feminine legacy of which I am a part by nature of my birth. Dresses and skirts make me feel more elegant, more unique, more myself. They are also practical and comfortable for my lifestyle. I remember in middle school one of my male friends told me that he had heard (erroneously or not) that women who wore skirts or dresses were raped more often because it was easier/quicker for a man to violate them than a woman in pants. I also remember reading articles over the years that said that wearing jewelry or heels is dangerous for women because it makes it harder to run away from a man or to defend oneself in a fight. Although in general most men are bigger than me, so I can't see being at an advantage running away or fighting ever, no matter what I am wearing. It is a cruel thing to have your actions dictated by fear, to lose beauty and joy because of fear, to change oneself from fear, to throw away beautiful things that make one happy and grateful because of fear. The one thing that makes me glad about reading about the recent lawsuits is that the women in them are defending themselves and trying to bring the consequences back to the men who hurt them, which is as it should be. Those who hurt should bear the consequences of their actions and change their ways, not those who have been hurt. We women should have all our choices open to us: to wear a dress or to wear pants----because we like them, not because one is 'safer' than the other.
There are so many paradoxes that women have to live with (speak out, but don't speak up----be strong, but don't be frightening----beauty is both power and weakness----care for others, but do/don't care for yourself----work the same job as your male peers but for less pay----try to work in a field that discriminates against women but don't let that discrimination keep you from being successful, etc. etc. etc.) and so many pressures from every direction that all one can do is acknowledge the unfairness of the world and many situations we must encounter, and then to do what one can to make one's own corner of the world a better and fairer place. Sometimes I have no idea how to do that, or how to be a 'woman,' so I think: I will try to be myself, and find out who that is. I will try to be kind. I will try to make objects of beauty. I will try to share when I have a chance to share. And that will have to be good enough, because it is all I can do. I will wear dresses when I want to and as often as I want to. I will try to shape my own life as much as I can and not let other people's choices be the primary molder of mine.
I am excited to share these photos of my new backyard (and new denim peplum top) with you! Our yard may not be large, but it more than makes up for that with beauty. Given that we moved from a very tiny one-bedroom apartment in the Bay Area with no yard or even a balcony to grow plants on or be outside in, our new townhouse in Utah (with a backyard! with a creek with ducks in it! and a beautiful birch tree! and with a little front patio I can grow plants in next Spring!) is a vast improvement in Mr Rat's and my life for which we are very grateful.
It isn't too cold yet to put away my autumn clothes for winter wool, for which I am also grateful, since it meant I could get some photos of my new denim peplum top sewn from late 1960s/early 1970s-era McCalls 2592. I've been excited about this pattern since I spotted it on sale on the Mom's Patterns website and ordered it in the mail. It reminds me of some of the more elegant bohemian looks of that era, and also has a prairie/Victorian influence, which I like.
McCalls 2592 sewed up well. I didn't have to make any adjustments and the fit is overall pretty good. My fabric, a mystery piece of denim I bought at the thrift store, didn't behave as well as the pattern---it had a tendency to stretch out on the curves, so next time I am working with light/medium weight denim I will remember to stay stitch every curve, rather than just the recommended ones. I finished the seams with a faux flat-fell finish, and used some scraps of bias tape to finish the armholes and to act as both a finish and a stay for the waist. The buttons probably look familiar to you if you've been reading this blog long: they are the same black thrifted buttons from my large jar of them that I've used on many projects in the past. I made the buttonholes by hand, and top-stitched and edge-stitched the seams with black thread, since it gave a slight contrast to the navy blue of the denim.
I'm wearing my new denim peplum top with my often-worn and much loved brown broadcloth skirt (originally reviewed here) and a thrifted vintage gold leaf brooch. Since the autumn here is much cooler than in California, I was wearing a black long sleeved t-shirt under my denim top, and tights, socks, and a petticoat under my skirt for warmth.
I'm pleased with how my first attempt at this pattern turned out. I'm sure I will make other versions, and wear them with pleasure.
Goodbye to gingham---not forever, but probably for the rest of the year. Since we moved to Utah at the beginning of the month we have also moved to a cooler, more colorful autumn, so I have already had to pack this gingham dress away that I made before I had to pack up my sewing supplies, and which I wore on our last outing to the monastery. Simplicity 7213 is one of my favorite dress patterns, which I have made up several times, but only shared once here on the blog (my black version, which you can see here). I wore the other pre-blog versions so much that I wore them out, so I thought I should make a new version or two for my wardrobe. I had hoped that this navy and white gingham version could be a dress I could wear from spring till fall, but the fabric ended up being very light and sheer, better suited to hot weather and summertime. Still, I can’t complain, since the fabric was free: gifted by one of my mom’s friends to her, and then from my mom to me. It had a narrow width, which makes me think it was vintage yardage. It also has a lot of crisp body and is finely woven, but is also rather sheer, as I mentioned before.
The construction was straightforward: the only changes I made to the pattern was to interface the neckline facing this time, since I found with my earlier versions that with a lot of wear, the neckline can tend to stretch out otherwise. I also sewed some vintage buttons from my stash down the center front, but left off the button-loops included in the pattern. I decided to use the long sleeves and tie closures, but use the shorter skirt. I cut the shoulder yokes and tie cuffs on the bias for a little variety, and interfaced the shoulder yokes to make sure they wouldn't stretch out. I didn't feel like I needed to worry for the cuffs, so I left them un-interfaced. I did lots of edge-stitching for neatness, as usual, using white thread this time to help blend into the fabric.
Now that I’ve caught up on the last photos from before our move, I can start posting new projects in our new home and neighborhood. We are enjoying the most beautiful tapestry of leaves right now, and I feel lucky to have a 'twenty-four carat gold' tree (as my mom would call it) right in our new backyard. So please come back for more photos soon.
I hope you are all having a good autumn in whatever part of the world you inhabit.
This was one of the last photos I took in our old apartment, while the weather was up and down between late-summer hot and early autumn cool. I am wearing my navy twill jacket (reviewed here) and my navy broadcloth skirt (reviewed here) with a vintage pale blue striped shirt with a white collar I found at the thrift store and a new sterling silver Stuart Nye pansy brooch that I found on Ebay for only a few dollars. It was black with tarnish when I got it, but after some polish, it is quite lovely, I think. Pansies have been one of my favorite flowers since I was a child, for their cheerful faces, and royal colors, and because ‘pansies are for thoughts.’
This past week my husband received a job offer and our life is suddenly in disarray as we get ready to move to another state in less than a month! Since our move will be taking up all of our time and energy, I thought it was best to warn you all that this website will likely be on hiatus for the next month at least, if not two, while we get ourselves and Gia and our Singer 15-91 all safely settled in a new place.
Please do come back and visit again in late October or November! I have two recent sewing projects to share that I haven't photographed yet, and am eager to share more about our new sewing space, and any new projects I might get started on after the move.
We’ve been having a hot spell in California, and so I’ve been grateful for all the cotton in my handmade wardrobe. This was an outfit I was particularly pleased with for being cool but still interesting when I wore it last week on yet another 90 plus degree day: the blouse I reviewed here, and the recently completed gingham skirt I reviewed here. I made the citrine necklace, too, which I blogged about recently here.
There is something about the contrast of a white collar and cuffs on a dark dress that is always attractive to me. I am not disappointed with 1970s-era raised-waist collared dress pattern Simplicity 5497: it makes an attractive and comfortable autumnal dress, and even if the collar is larger in real life than the pattern envelope makes it seem, it is still proportional and nice looking with the long cuffs and the slightly puffed sleeves. I sewed my version out of striped black cotton that I bought at Michael Levine’s ‘Loft’ in the Los Angeles fabric district back in July. The Loft sells large pieces of remnant fabric by the pound, so most of the yardage I buy there ends up coming out to $1 a yard or less. I think this cotton was meant to be for men’s dress shirts, but there were two relatively large pieces of it, so I decided it would make a nice dress for early fall when the weather is still warm, and for later autumn and winter days worn with cardigans and heavier layers. For that reason, I left off the bow in the back of the bodice to make wearing sweaters easier and lengthened (and widened) the skirt pieces quite a bit, until they are at ankle length. I find that I like ankle length dresses and skirts a lot right now: they are easy to walk in without feeling tangled, and I never have to worry about them climbing up my legs in a stiff breeze. I think ankle length skirts also look nice with boots, like my favorite old Nine-West ones I’m wearing here.
Construction notes: I cut the skirt pieces on the selvedge wherever possible and pinked the other seams. I used a heavier interfacing for the collar and cuffs. It didn’t fuse very well, so they can look a little creased sometimes close up, but I think they turned out well enough all the same. My goal is to have wearable clothes rather than perfect ones. While I’m always striving to be a better sewer, I think it is better to accept minor flaws and consider them as part of the overall personality of a garment than to be continually dismayed over them. I edge-stitched the collar and cuffs, used bias binding to finish the waistline seam, and sewed the buttonholes on the cuffs by hand. I like the detail of the curved edge of the cuff---I think it echoes the collar shape and makes the dress more special. The buttons are from my thrift-store bought button stash.
Mr Rat took me shopping at our favorite thrift store the day before we took these photos, so I was happy to wear the new gold flower brooch I found on that trip with my new dress, and its matching clip on earrings (although they didn’t end up peering out of my hair in any of these photos). My hat is from the San Diego hat company, bought at the beginning of the summer via Amazon.
The monastery garden is starting to look more autumnal, even though the weather continues more hot than cool, and there are still flowers here and there, wilted but triumphant. Still, the leaves are starting to change, the earth is dry and brown under the olive trees and the redwoods, and the squirrels and spiders are all busy getting fat for the winter only a few months ahead. There are webs everywhere, which give the garden a haunted, mysterious aspect. Mr Rat got several lovely photos of a large and handsome spinner with her yellow stripes. She had built a web large enough to catch me had I been able to fly up above the bushes between two redwood trees. The industry of such an enterprise is astonishing to me----I can’t imagine what it would be like to crochet a blanket the size of a house (what I imagine a human-made-web might be like), or to construct a piece of architecture so enormous and so delicate. And yet spiders do it as a matter of fact, all the time. And when the wind or the rain blows down their creations, they find a new spot and start all over again.
-Take your time while cutting and sewing. Patience brings the best results.
-Iron between steps. Press your seam allowances flat first, to ‘blend’ the stitches, then open, then on the opposite/right side of the fabric for the greatest crispness. It also helps to pre-iron your fabric (and pattern, too, if it’s wrinkly---just make sure to use a dry iron on the lowest heat setting) before cutting it out.
-Pre-wash your fabric. You will save yourself so much disappointment if you know how your fabric will behave in the wash, and it helps make the sewing process easier to have the sizing that is added to some fabrics washed away.
-Edge and top-stitch your seams. This adds a professional look to your sewing projects, strengthens the seams, and helps the fabric behave itself and stay crisp looking while worn.
-Finish your seams on the inside, too. It takes extra time and effort, but it helps your sewing projects get through the washing cycle intact, and makes your projects look good inside and out.
-Hand-stitching is more precise than machine-stitching, so don’t be afraid to spend some time with a thimble and a needle. Hand-baste difficult joins or trims, or add bias binding by hand.
-Sew on your buttons one at a time. After I finish making my buttonholes, I mark each button with a pin and sew them on one at a time, starting with the top-most button. This helps me keep the blouse or dress flat as I go down, and I can compare the position of each button to make sure they are even and properly placed. If I make a mistake and fabric bubbles above a button, I only have to remove and reattach the one button rather than a lot of them.
-Plan ahead! The more planning you do, the better you will be satisfied with your finished projects. Knowing what you like to wear, what fits are more flattering, what colors and cuts you like best, etc. will help you make good decisions when matching your fabric, pattern and trims. Consider doing some wardrobe planning, choosing a color palette, and/or creating inspiration boards before settling on your sewing projects.
-Don’t skip stay-stitching. It really makes a difference in accuracy and not letting important curved sections of your fabric stretch out before they’re sewn.
-Use a seam-ripper to unpick any basting or gathering stitches that may be visible after you’ve finished sewing a garment.
-Test your thread-tension on a scrap of fabric before jumping into your sewing project. Thread tension makes the difference between puckered and flat seams.
-If you’re uncertain about a pattern’s fit, make a ‘wearable muslin’ first out of an old sheet or leftover scraps. It takes extra time, but when you want a great result, extra time and effort are required.
-When gathering fabric, use 2 or 3 rows of gathering stitches rather than one. This will help your gathers look more even.
-Press your darts on a tailor’s ham, first on the inside of the dart, then on the outside of the garment. Make sure you never back-stitch at the ends of your darts, just stitch a few stiches flat against the very edge of the fabric, then leave the ends of the thread long and tie a knot and trim off the excess before ironing the dart. Pressing the dart on a ham helps give it a natural look and flattens the tips so they don’t look pointy.
-Plan some accessories for your finished outfits. Sometimes a garment doesn’t look quite right until it has the perfect jewelry, scarf, hat, etc. to finish the look.
-Take pleasure and pride in your work, and it will show in your finished projects!
Mr and Mrs Rat
Mr and Mrs Rat like to sew